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How To Use Milk Paint, Extra Bond, SafePaint® & Daddy Van's Natural Beeswax

milk paint

Our Old Fashioned MILK PAINT is a re-creation of the ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the sale of commercially made paints. It is an authentic finish for use in the restoration of antiques or the reproduction of antique furniture. It comes in vibrant colours that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our real MILK PAINT is made from elements that pre-date the use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases and solvents, it is biodegradable, non-toxic, and odour-free when dry. Our MILK PAINT is preferred by custom furniture builders, interior designers, artists, artisans, do-it-yourselfers, and those who are sensitive to the need to protect the environment.

APPLICATIONS

Our MILK PAINT is used to achieve an authentic "old look" for furniture, floors, cupboards, woodwork, walls, signs, toys, and stencilling. It penetrates into all clean, porous (unfinished) surfaces. Mixed with our EXTRA-BOND, it will also adhere to just about any nonporous surface. With a clear top coat to seal the painted surface, it can be used for furniture subject to fingerprints and spills. For surfaces expected to receive more heavy wear, we recommend using a heavy-duty topcoat. An oil or solvent-based sealer is recommended for kitchen cabinets as acrylics may not protect against certain kitchen oils such as grease splatters and olive oil spills.

Our MILK PAINT is used by artists and artisans to create beautiful results that cannot be achieved with other paints. The dead flat, uneven, grainy look is quite distinctive. Our MILK PAINT is also used for interior walls, floors and woodwork in homes, offices and public areas used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to chemically based paints.

ADVANTAGES

MILK PAINT produces an authentic Colonial or Shaker finish; Adheres to almost all clean, porous surfaces; Environmentally safe, non-toxic and anti-bacterial; Non-flammable; Dead flat finish; Solvent-free; Fast drying; Odorless when dry; Comes in deep rich colors; Longest lasting paint known; Colors can be blended, by the user, to produce many tints and shades; Permanent colors will not fade; Easily cleaned up with water.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Colour: comes in sixteen traditional colours.

State: dry powder. Non-combustible. Non-flammable.

Mixing medium: water.

Environmental safety: biodegradable and non-toxic.

Mixing temperature: mixes best with warm water.

Thinner: water.

VOC's: none. Entirely solvent-free.

Clean up: soap and water.

Odour: faint milky smell when wet, odourless when dry.

Drying time: dry to the touch, 30 mins. To re-coat, wait two hours. Cures and hardens over time.

Shelf life: in a sealed bag, indefinitely. As a liquid, overnight, seal and refrigerate. 

AVAILABLE SIZES

One pint 6 oz. powder, plus water covers approximately 35 square feet.

One quart 12 oz. powder, plus water covers approximately 75 square feet.

One gallon 48 oz. powder, plus water covers approximately 300 square feet.

MILK PAINT DIRECTIONS

Porous surfaces: milk paint, like all water paints, adheres best to a porous surface, such as bare wood or masonry.

Nonporous surfaces: our Extra-Bond additive will help the milk paint adhere to MOST clean, sound nonporous surfaces.

SIMPLE TO USE

Mix: measure about equal amounts of water and powder into separate containers. The one-pint package contains about 1-1/2 cups of powder, and when mixed with 1-1/2 cups of water it will make about 1 pint of paint. (Note: warm water helps).

Apply: apply with a dry brush, roller or spray gun. Natural bristle brushes are fine, but foam brushes may require less effort and leave fewer brush marks. Milk paint is naturally somewhat streaky in colour. This is normal. The most even colour is achieved by spraying. Next best for evenness is by roller application. Again, you may find that foam rollers are easier to control. For spraying, paint should be a little thinner than for brushing and should be strained. Spray with conventional spray equipment at about 30 lbs pressure. Adjust pressure and nozzle to get a good paint film, not dry and not runny. With a little practice, you should be able to spray a Windsor chair in about 3 or 4 minutes. Remember always wear proper protection when spraying any paint.

Clean up: clean all tools now with water and a Scotch-Brite pad so that the paint doesn't dry on them.

MIXING TIPS

Small amounts: when mixing small containers of the paint by hand it is easiest to make a paste of the powder with some of the water and stir until smooth, like making gravy, using a rubber spatula or paint stick. Then gradually add more water until you reach the desired consistency.

Large amounts: when mixing up larger amounts it may be easier to mix equal amounts of water and powder using a wire paint paddle on a drill or similar method, on lowest speed, being careful not to mix too fast which can create foam.

Timing: mix thoroughly for 2-3 minutes. Then let stand for 10-15 minutes, so everything has a chance to disperse entirely.

Strain: sometimes powder lumps don't fully dissolve. You may want to strain the mixed paint through a paper mesh paint funnel, a piece of cheesecloth, or, better still, a piece of nylon stocking.

Stir: stir paint every 10 minutes or so while using, and add more water to the proper consistency if the paint thickens.

Best used fresh: milk paint is always best mixed up fresh. If you happen to have leftover paint or need to wait a day to finish your project you may keep any unused paint in a sealed container in the refrigerator (even plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band is fine). It remains best if mixed on the thinner side, even with a thin layer of water put on top of the paint mixture. Being true to the original formulas we do not add unnatural preservatives or extenders to our paint, and due to its organic nature it can thicken and gel up over time, so it is best to mix up what you plan to use that day if possible. Any unused powder can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container such as a jar.

(A) POROUS SURFACES PAINTING PROCEDURES

New wood or other porous surfaces such as masonry.

Note: No primer is necessary - the first coat acts as its primer on most softwoods and open-grained hardwoods. However, close-grained hardwoods such as maple or birch will require an initial layer of milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2" below.

A-1} Clean: wipe down the item with a damp rag to remove any dust and to pre-dampen the surface.

A-2} Seal: then, seal knots, if any (optional) with shellac (apply the first coat of milk paint while the shellac is still tacky) OR paint knots with a mixture of prepared milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2" below. You may also add the Extra-Bond into your entire first coat if desired.

A-3} First coat: paint the entire item with the first coat of milk paint.

A-4} Second coat: after an hour or more, if you wish, you can rub down the first coat lightly with a Scotch-Brite pad, fine sandpaper, or non-oiled steel wool. Now, if it looks like it needs it, you can apply a second coat of straight milk paint.

A-5} Finished: if you like the look and the rough texture, your masterpiece is finished

A-6} Optional: after a couple of hours, or overnight, you may wish to rub down to a satin-smooth finish and "distress" the finish. You can rub down the surface as in No. 4 above or do any distressing at this time. Be sure to try any of these techniques on a test piece to be sure you will like the result.

A-7} Prevent water spotting: we recommend sealing the paint on any surface that is susceptible to spills or in a damp area or if you will want to be able to wash the surface. Without a sealer the paint is fine, but it will water spot and readily absorb dirt. Any sealer will work over the milk paint, but again, it is essential to test the finish over a painted scrap to be sure that you like the result. Penetrating oils such as linseed, tung, or blended oils like Watco Danish Oil will deepen the colour considerably, but are beautiful over the milk paint, especially on a piece of furniture such as a chair. Wax is fine, too, but, as with the above oils, may not protect enough against coffee cup rings, for example, on a table. Clear gel finishes and most solvent based finishes usually work well as sealers but like oils and waxes, do darken the paint colour, and can tend to yellow a bit which may be of concern if you are using white milk paint. Look for a non-yellowing topcoat such as Benjamin Moore Stays Clear to avoid yellowing over white milk paint. An oil or solvent based sealer may be the best option for kitchen cabinets. On floors use a sealer meant for floors for best protection.

(B) WALL PAINTING PROCEDURES

New wallboard and new plaster.

B-1} Prepare surface: on sheetrock or masonry that has joint compound over joints and nails, "joint banding" or "photographing" may produce problems caused by the differences in porosities and surface texture of the face paper of the sheetrock or the roughness of masonry and the smoothness of the joint compound. When viewed in direct lighting, the joints may be visible. To avoid this phenomenon, an initial coat of "Sheetrock First Coat" or equivalent flat latex wall primer (available at most paint stores) is advisable. We have also had good luck with AFM Safecoat New Wallboard Primer. Note: We do NOT recommend using primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding cure time of plasters and primers before moving on to using the milk paint. Also, additives in some modern plasters may inhibit proper adhesion of the milk paint in some cases, which is another reason that we suggest the use of primers for plaster as well as sheetrock surfaces.

B-2} Extra-Bond: to use the Extra-Bond, first mix the milk paint with water according to the directions in "Simple to Use" mixing section, then add an equal amount of Extra-Bond, and stir the two liquids together. You may use as little as one part Extra-Bond to two parts of milk paint, but better adhesion may be achieved using equal parts. Next, after the first coat is completely dry, paint a second coat of straight milk paint. (Extra-Bond is not necessary for the second coat).

B-3} Seal: if desired, as in "A-7," above.

(C) NON-POROUS SURFACES PAINTING PROCEDURES

Previously painted or otherwise finished surfaces, any other non-porous surface such as glass, metal, enamel or pre-primed material.

Note: unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution you about the use of milk paint over multiple layers of paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand. Milk paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause the weakly bonded underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems. We also do not recommend using milk paint over primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin.

C-1} Prepare surface: good finishing practice states that any surface to be painted or repainted must be cleaned and dulled, not shiny. All grime should be removed with a washing soda such as T.S.P., and polished surfaces should be scuffed up with sandpaper. Surface must be clean, sound and free of oil, grease, dust and dirt. By ignoring this practice, the new paint may not adhere well, and future coats could peel off when repainted.

C-2} Test surface: for previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is essential to also test the layers of paint for adhesion to each other. This is to be sure that the old paint won't peel off and take the new paint with it. First, cut a one inch long "X" in the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp knife. It's best to do this in a few different areas. Then apply a strip of Scotch tape or masking tape over the "X", and rub the tape on firmly. Then pull it off quickly. If the old paint comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion, usually created from re-painting over grime.

C-3} Remove old paint: if the old paint films have poor adhesion, we do not recommend painting over with any water paint, including milk paint. The old paint should be removed by stripping or sanding and scraping. If you don't remove it, the new paint may lift off the old paint, at least in some areas.

C-4} Neutralize: on any surfaces that have been chemically stripped of finish, be sure to neutralise any residual chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution before re-painting.

C-5} Prime metal: raw metal should be primed with a rust inhibiting primer.

C-6} Extra-Bond: apply one coat of milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2", above, followed by a second coat of straight milk paint. This will work on MOST clean surfaces where previous layers are sound and not weakly bonded as shown above, and that have been prepared for painting as stated above. If you are unsure of the surface, it is a good idea to test the project first from start to finish in an unnoticeable area. This means applying two coats in your test if that is what you plan to do on your project. Often, on a questionable surface, the first coat may appear to adhere, but sometimes an adhesion problem is not apparent until you apply the second coat.

C-7} Seal: if desired, as in "A-7", above.

(D) EXTERIOR USE

We do not recommend milk paint for exterior use as it will water spot in the rain (except for white paint). However, multiple coats of a clear exterior finish will seal the paint and prevent water spots. Traditionally, milk paint was made waterproof with the addition of oil, such as linseed, poppy or peanut oil. We do not recommend this as the oil may still cause problems later with mildew or brittleness of the paint film. And, even with the oil added, the paint may still water spot.

(E) MILK PAINT COLORS

The colours will vary slightly from batch to batch due to minor variations in the natural earth materials. If you wish to change the hues or make tints of the colours (some are shown on our colour chart), start with Snow White and add colours to suit your taste. You can add Pitch Black or Lexington Green to deepen the tone. For example, 6 tbsp of Pitch Black to one pint (6 oz. bag) of Lexington Green makes a very nice early Windsor chair dark green. Any of our colours may be mixed to create new colours. The best way to develop your "ideal colour" is to start with a paper cup and some measuring spoons. Mix your powders first. Try a tablespoon of a major colour and add teaspoons or even fractions of teaspoons of another colour. Add a little water and mix well. The colour will look darker when wet, so paint the sample on a piece of scrap wood or even cardboard. The first quick test will show you which direction to go from there. Then multiply your measurements and make up the needed quantity. If you are going to use a sealer over the paint, try it first on your test piece to check the final colour.

(F) DECORATIVE FINISHES / FAUX FINISHES

Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a test area before applying your first coat on your project. For example, if you were going to finish a vertical surface with our Antique Crackle, your test should duplicate this condition so that if a problem such as running and sagging occurs, you will know about it in advance and adjust your brushing technique. Practice and testing cannot be overemphasised. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.

(G) INGREDIENT QUALITY

Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our milk paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients are inert materials. All of our ingredients are food grade or pharmaceutical grade.

(H) ZERO TOXICITY

Milk paint is non-toxic as it contains no petrochemicals or VOC's. When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odour which will disappear in a few hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyses with the acidic milk protein. Inert when dry, it can still have anti-bacterial properties depending on the humidity in the area.

(I) SHELF LIFE

Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won't mix up correctly and if applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.

Our EXTRA BOND is a water-based polymer emulsion. When added to Milk Paint it gives the paint greater adhesion to non-porous or previously finished surfaces. As an adjunct to Milk Paint, it is used by custom furniture builders, interior designers, craftsmen, and do-it-yourselfers on difficult surfaces. It is environmentally safe and non-toxic, hypo-allergenic, low odour and VOC-free.

EXTRA BOND is mixed with Milk Paint before painting on surfaces such as glass, baked enamel, primed metal, oil or latex painted surfaces, varnished, shellacked or polyurethaned surfaces. Easy to use, long shelf life, completely environmentally safe, non-toxic and VOC-free, non-flammable, fast drying, no odour when dry, easy soap and water clean-up.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Colour: white, dries clear / satin.

VOC's: none.

Consistency: viscosity of the heavy cream.

Clean up: soap and water.

Temperature: best brushing consistency at room temperature.

Drying time: approximately one hour.

Combustibility: non-combustible.

Freeze / thaw stability: none.

Shelf life: 1 to 2 years at room temperature.

Important: do not allow to freeze.

APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

Two first rules should always be followed in the application of MILK PAINT with EXTRA BOND, or of any other finish for that matter:

1} Make sure the surface is perfectly clean.

2} First test the Milk Paint with EXTRA BOND added on a scrap piece of the same surface material.

3} Thoroughly clean the surface to be painted. Use a cleaner that does not leave a soapy or oily residue such as TSP. Hard shiny surfaces should be dulled somewhat with Scotchbrite, sand-paper or steel wool.

4} Measure out equal parts of mixed Milk Paint and EXTRA BOND. Mix together. You may actually use as little as one part EXTRA BOND to two parts Milk Paint, but better adhesion may be achieved using equal parts.

5} If the second coat of Milk Paint is desired, allow two hours between coats.

6} EXTRA BOND is not necessary for the second coat.

7} Clean up with water. EXTRA BOND should be stored at room temperature with the lid on tight.

safe paint

Our SAFEPAINT ORGANIC MILK PAINT FOR WALLS is a re-creation of the ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the sale of commercially made paints. It comes in rich colours that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our SafePaint is made from elements that pre-date the use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases and solvents, it is biodegradable, non-toxic, and odour-free when dry. SafePaint is preferred by those who are chemically sensitive and those sensitive to the need to protect the environment.

APPLICATIONS

Our SafePaint can be painted on most clean, dry surfaces. Where our traditional Old Fashioned Milk Paint prefers a porous surface, SafePaint prefers a nonporous surface. Once cured it develops good water resistance, however for surfaces expected to receive heavier wear, we recommend sealing with our CLEAR COAT topcoat. An oil or solvent-based sealer is recommended for kitchen applications to protect against kitchen oils such as grease splatters.

Where traditional milk paint is known for its flat, uneven, somewhat streaky appearance, SafePaint, while still a true milk paint, has a more uniform appearance, while still very flat. It is fine for all interior wall applications both residential and commercial, including hospitals, retirement homes, schools, nurseries, offices, stores and public areas used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to chemically based paints.

SAFEPAINT PROPERTIES

SafePaint is environmentally safe; Non-toxic and biodegradable; Zero VOC’s - entirely solvent-free; Non-flammable; Faint milky odour when wet, odourless when dry; Clean up with soap and water; Dry to the touch in 30 minutes; To re-coat, wait two hours; Cures, hardens, and builds water resistance over time; The dry powder form mixes best with room temperature water; Fast drying; Powder in sealed bags should last indefinitely. After opening, save powder in a glass jar or covered tin or airtight plastic storage bin; Permanent colours; Available in a variety of colours which can be blended, by the user, to produce many tints and shades Flat finish.

AVAILABLE SIZE

One gallon 64 oz. powder, plus water covers approximately 300 square feet.

SAFEPAINT DIRECTIONS

Very Important: please read this entire Direction Sheet before using this product.

ALL SURFACES MUST BE CLEAN AND DUST FREE

Very glossy surfaces must be roughed up with sandpaper and cleaned before painting. If you can rub the palm of your hand across the wall and see dust, you will need to vacuum and wash the wall.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Milk Paint works on some surfaces better than others. Unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution you about the use of SafePaint milk paint over layers of paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand.

Milk Paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause any weakly bonded existing underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems. We also do not recommend using SafePaint over primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin, or any flexible caulks including silicone or latex.

OTHER PROBLEM SURFACES

Calcimine paint: calcimine was widely used for ceilings into the early 20th century, and contained minimal binders. It is essentially chalk. It is almost impossible to paint anything over calcimine paint - especially milk paint. Sometimes the calcimine extends onto the upper part of a wall. If you choose to paint on such a surface, the calcimine paint needs to be removed. 

Note: use extra caution and test surface when painting over modern ceiling paint as well, as it often contains minimal binders.

Horsehair plaster: plaster, especially old horsehair plaster, can be somewhat crumbly, and would not be considered a sound surface. If the walls appear to be in good shape, they must be cleaned thoroughly and should not be primed.

Old wallpaper paste: wallpaper paste residues may create a problem with adhesion and or lead to the new paint cracking or peeling. It should be removed and the surface cleaned before painting. We cannot overemphasise the importance of testing if you want to paint with milk paint on a questionable surface.

TEST SURFACE

For previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is essential to also test the layers of paint for adhesion to each other. This is to be sure that the old paint won’t peel off and take the new paint with it. First, cut a one inch long “X” in the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp knife. This is not foolproof, however, so it’s best to do this in a few different areas. Then apply a strip of masking tape over the “X,” and rub the tape on firmly. Then pull it off quickly. If the old paint comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion, usually created from re-painting over an unclean surface.

PREPARE SURFACE

Professional finishing practice states that any surface to be painted or repainted must be cleaned and dulled, not shiny. All grime should be removed with a washing soda such as T.S.P., according to the manufacturer's recommendations, and polished surfaces should be scuffed up with sandpaper. Surface must be clean, sound and free of oil, grease, dust and dirt. By ignoring this practice, the new paint may not adhere well, and future coats could peel off when repainted.

REMOVE OLD PAINT

If the old paint films do have poor adhesion, we do NOT recommend painting over with any water paint, including SafePaint. The old paint should be removed by stripping or sanding and scraping. If you don’t remove it, the new paint may lift off the old paint, at least in some areas.

NEUTRALIZE

On any surfaces that have been chemically stripped of finish, be sure to neutralise any residual chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution before repainting.

PRIMERS

SafePaint is self-priming over drywall, joint compound and new plaster. If the surface has been primed or previously painted apply two coats of SafePaint in a small area and test for adhesion, as described above, after 24 hours.

SAFEPAINT AND EXTRA-BOND

We've gotten lots of good feedback about our new SafePaint for walls over the past year.

One thing we've learned, though, is that in many cases it may be a good idea to add our Extra-Bond into the first coat, especially if painting on an unknown surface, over repairs, or if you plan to paint more than two coats. (If mixed up correctly, the paint should cover well in two coats.)

This is not so much for adhesion as to add some flexibility to this first coat. We do not add plasticisers to our natural milk paints, and as a result, they form a brittle, hard coating when dry. And as it dries, it shrinks and pulls on previous layers. This can result in pulling away from a coat of old paint that is not well adhered to the original surface, or it can result in some very fine cracking or checking that you may notice if you look closely at the surface.

Adding Extra-Bond to the first coat can help alleviate these issues if they were to occur. Therefore, while it is not required, we recommend that you might add Extra-Bond to increase the flexibility of the paint. It will extend the coverage of your first coat. And, while it is not a natural product like the paint itself, Extra-Bond also has zero VOC's, and just a faint smell, like kindergarten paste.

SAFEPAINT MIXING AND APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

WATER AMOUNT

To make one gallon of paint- start with 72 oz. (9 cups) water & a 1-gallon package of SafePaint powder.

Note: these amounts are approximate, and may vary with the paint colour. But they are an excellent place to start. After following mixing instructions adjust paint mixture by stirring in a little more water if it seems to be too thick. Consistency should be that of conventional wall paint.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS

For larger quantities use a paint paddle on an electric drill and a container larger than the amount of paint you are mixing (for example use a 2 1/2 gallon bucket when mixing a gallon of paint). SafePaint mixes best with a mixer, rather than by hand. We’ve had good results using the “Exomixer” brand paint mixer, the “Original Ribbon Mixer,” which blends vertically and horizontally, and which should be readily available.

For small amounts use a kitchen mixer and a small round container. It’s best to use room temperature water. Start off with about 1/3 of the water in the bucket and gradually add paint powder, mixing until dissolved. Start blending at low speed until the powder is wet, then increase to a higher speed. The paint may start off looking foamy and frothy, which is normal.

Keep alternating powder and water in small amounts, thoroughly mixing at each step and not allowing the mixture to get too thick or dry, until you reach the desired volume and consistency. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket or container while mixing. The paint should now be very smooth and not foamy. Before pouring the mixed paint into a roller tray, check the bottom of the bucket for lumps - continue mixing until they are gone.

Stir paint every ten minutes or so while using, and add more water to achieve the proper consistency if the paint thickens. Be careful not to thin it too much as you will not make good coverage if the paint is too thin. If lumps should appear as the paint sits, remix with your mixer.

Note: SafePaint thickens the most in the first hour after mixing. Therefore it's important not to leave it unattended after mixing for long periods of time (i.e. lunch breaks, etc.) without being able to stir or thin it if necessary.

If you have paint left over, you may be able to save it, especially if mixed on the thinner side, like light cream. Store in a sealed container or with saran wrap and a rubber band stretched over your mixing vessel. After sitting the paint may need to be remixed.

APPLICATION

You will want to use a good quality brush for cutting in, and short nap rollers. Cut in as little as possible around windows, doors, etc. to avoid differences in appearance between brushing and rolling.

Two coats will provide the best coverage. Your first coat may not look perfect - that’s normal. Do not keep pushing the paint around. Allow this first coat to dry and form a primer coat. You should have even coverage with your second coat. Too many coats or excessively thick coats can cause cracking. Paint that is too thin will result in inadequate coverage. Wait at least two hours between coats. Clean up tools immediately with soap and water. Any unused powder can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container such as a glass jar.

NOTES ABOUT ORGANIC PAINT

A natural paint like SafePaint does have its limitations and quirks, but it has inherently beautiful qualities that you will not see in a chemically based paint. Not only does it give a room character and a certain presence, and changes colour in different light throughout the day, but you may also paint your bedroom in the afternoon and sleep in it that night without having to breathe noxious fumes.

Why it’s best to mix up only what you plan to use that day if possible?

Since we choose not to use unnatural extenders or preservatives in our paint, it can thicken and gel up over time. This was true with pre-industrial era milk paint. But we think the inconvenience is worth it to keep our paint genuinely natural and safe.

You may also notice a slight ammonia odour when opening a stored container of liquid milk paint. This is a natural occurrence and dissipates quickly. Keep in mind that although SafePaint may look like conventional flat paint on the wall, it is not like using typical latex or oil-based paint that you might be used to.

EXTERIOR USE

We do not recommend SafePaint for exterior use at this time until further outside exposure testing has been done.

SAFEPAINT COLORS

The colours will vary slightly from batch to batch due to minor variations in the natural earth materials. If you wish to change the hues or make tints of the colours (some are shown on our Old Fashioned Milk Paint colour chart), start with Snow White and add colours to suit your taste. Any of our colours may be mixed to create new colours.

The best way to develop your “ideal colour” is to start with a paper cup and some measuring spoons. Mix your powders first. Try a tablespoon of a major colour and add teaspoons or even fractions of teaspoons of another colour. Add a little water and mix well. The colour will look darker when wet, so paint the sample on a piece of cardboard. The first quick test will show you which direction to go from there. Then multiply your measurements and make up the needed quantity. If you are going to use a sealer over the paint, try it first on your test piece to check the final colour and sheen.

DECORATIVE FINISHES / FAUX FINISHES

Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a test area before applying your first coat on your project. Practice and testing cannot be overemphasised. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.

INGREDIENT QUALITY

Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our SafePaint milk paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients are inert materials.

ZERO TOXICITY

SafePaint is non-toxic as it contains no petrochemicals or VOC’S. When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odour which will disappear in a few hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyses with the acidic milk protein.

SHELF LIFE

Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won’t mix up correctly and if applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.

natural organic furniture beeswax

Daddy Van's makes beeswax wood furniture polish that is non-toxic, chemical free and safe for people and the planet using all natural ingredients. Daddy Van's All Natural Beeswax Furniture Polish has received the USDA Biopreferred Certification. The Green America Gold Seal of Approval is presented to businesses that go beyond product and service quality to set the highest standards in environmental sustainability and social justice. Products are certified cruelty-free by Leaping Bunny.

Renews, nourishes, protects, and imparts a rich, deep glow to both finished and unfinished wood; brings life back to worn, dull metal and provides a protective topcoat for milk-painted surfaces; food safe for use in the kitchen and baby safe for use on cribs and wooden toys; naturally non-toxic and chemical free; zero VOCs; natural products association certified; natural home care product and USDA approved 100% biobased product.

To use: a little goes a long way! With a soft cloth, rub a small amount of wax onto the surface in a circular motion. Buff with a clean, dry cotton cloth, and you will be rewarded with the healthy glow of the wood, shining as if from within. 140g is for 2m2 and 900g is for 13m2.

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